O27 is a lighter, smaller version of O. In fact, much O27 is actually closer in some ways to S scale, but mounted on O gauge wheels and track. The whole premise behind O27 is to make a smaller train capable of handling tighter curves. O27 was meant to serve those who didn't have the room for O gauge.
While most O gauge trains can handle O27 track, some are foiled by the tight curves or other limitations. Deeper flanges in O gauge cars can result in derailments when crossing O27 switches and crossovers. However, O27 cars have no problems negotiating the higher rails of pure O. In view of this, the benefits of O gauge track over O27 are obvious.
However, rather than discard O27 track, we can continue to use it. O27 can serve as those branch lines, short lines and industrial areas which restrict traffic. It is an idea that works, because just like real railroads, the O27 short lines are limited in what they can handle.
For you, the use of both types of track demands paying attention when designing layouts. You have to allow for an interchange between Class 1 mainlines - O track - and short lines. Larger O trains have to be able to serve their short lines without actually entering the restricted area.
Here are four ideas on the subject:
1) You can have a small switcher take cars from the O line, deliver them to customers on the shortline, and then bring outgoing freight back to the main.
2) Mainline passenger routes would interchange with short line commuter runs via shared stations. E.g., Track 1 is the mainline, track 2 the branchline.
3) The O27 shortline operates as an entirely separate railroad from the O gauge mainline, the only interchange being transfer of freight between the two.
4) Use O27 for all industrial spurs and yards along the mainline. This makes it imperative that only smaller O27 locomotives can enter the industrial areas.
The use of both types of track makes it easier to simulate real railroad operations, because the O27 track puts some very real restrictions on traffic.
Suggested "Track Pack"
Here's a recommended basic O Gauge track pack for good train running:
40 straight track
40 curved track
12 half straights
12 half curves
4 remote control track
8 insulated track
3 left hand switches
3 right hand switches
20 extra wide (42" or 54") curves
2 90 degree crossovers
2 45 degree crossovers
You have enough for a good two-train operation!
Suggested Trains
It is hard to recommend a number or type of train, because we never seem to have enough. However, here are suggested minimums that allow for many varied operations:
Two switchers - to handle light work, drills, MOW, etc.
Two main line locomotives - for the regular freight and passenger runs
Ten or twenty freight cars - because more is better!
Six to Nine Passenger Cars - to make up to three passenger trains or four commuter runs
Three Maintenance of Way cars - for that one MOW train that adds intrigue to any successful rail operation.
Operating Accessories
It is recommended to have operating accessories working from a separate transformer rather than track power, when possible. Wiring can be a hassle, so try the Hot Rail:
The wires which go from the accessory to a power supply - track or transformer - are connected to a track lockon.
Get the two-strand wire - the kind with two wires in one - and connect to transformer. The length can vary according to your needs, but longer is better here.
Connect the other end of this wire to a lockon.
Put two pieces of straight track together - it can be O or O27. Connect the lockon from the transformer to this track.
Connect up to five accessory lockons to the track.
Turn the transformer on to the desired setting. Your accessories are powered, and you've cut down the wiring work considerably. Instead of individually screwing each wire to the transformer, you merely lock on! When you're done, just unclip lockons from the Hot Rail. Leave the lockons connected to their respective accessories / wires. This way, next time you run trains, you just lock on once rather than screw on each wire.
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